Biscayne Steak, Sea and Wine takes the classic steakhouse to another place
By Brock Radke
Photos by Peter Harasty
A brisk, refreshed resort requires a stylish, modern restaurant to serve as its signature dining experience. If you have yet to visit the recently revamped Tropicana, a classic restored to glory thanks to a South Beach-style makeover, now’s the time. And when you do, don’t miss the chance to be captivated by its sleek steakhouse, Biscayne.
It hides quietly and confidently behind a wall of white cabana-style shutters. Upon entering, you’ll be soothed instead of shocked, prepared for a relaxing, memorable meal rather than blasted with glitz and glamour. Near-chocolate parquet floors, white tablecloths and leather chairs, creamy walls and subtle strokes of blue and purple create an environment that harks back to classic steakhouse décor, with a light breath of fresh, tropical air.
Biscayne has been hailed as one of the most exciting new restaurants on the Strip, revitalizing the steakhouse genre with small twists of creativity on a classic menu. What many do not know: Behind the scenes, the kitchen focuses on using regional, farm-fresh ingredients, creating everything from scratch and sourcing only the highest-quality meats and seafood. This was demonstrated by spring’s four-course tasting menu, which included roasted cauliflower soup, steak tartare with quail egg and grilled medallions of antelope.
But now, it’s summer, which means there are plenty of lighter dishes to balance the beef. Start with a sampling of sushi, pan-seared scallops with grilled asparagus or the current incarnation of the steak tartare, made with wagyu beef and crisp pretzel chips on the side. A chilled seafood platter—lobster, shrimp, oysters and king crab legs—is always a stellar way to cool off. Biscayne’s signature salad is a chopped version: crisp lettuce laced with slices of warm pork belly, toasted walnuts and poached walnuts. It’s almost as colorful as it is delicious.
Fresh seafood options abound for your entrée choice, starting with the basics: shrimp scampi, Australian lobster tails with drawn butter and lemon, or steamed king crab legs. The market catch revolves depending on the season, but will likely include firm, moist halibut, seared ahi tuna, grilled mahi mahi or swordfish and wild salmon. Take your pick and pair your fish with one of five accompaniments, including citrus-butter sauce, pickled pineapple salsa or sweet chili. Don’t worry, there are no bad choices among the endless flavor combinations.
Likewise, stick with what you like when it comes to beef. Nothing can match the bold flavor of the dry-aged one-in ribeye steak, weighing in at a powerful 18 ounces of juicy majesty. But for an adventure in pleasurable texture, experiment with the wagyu skirt steak, 10 ounces of tender, marbled luxury with a taste all its own. Looking for a big classic? Order the mega-cut of prime rib, drenched in natural jus and pan drippings and served with horseradish cream. Enhance any steak with some sweet crab meat, scampi, lobster, crab or foie gras. Biscayne may be a cutting-edge eatery, but getting exactly what you want never goes out of style.
5-10 p.m. Sun.-Thurs., 5-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat. 702.739.2222