Even in a culinary landscape as deep and rich as Las Vegas, there is always room for something else.

With super chef Tony Hu’s Lao Sze Chuan at the Palms, that something else has arrived. Known as mayor of Chinatown in Chicago, where he operates nearly 20 different restaurants specializing in authentic Chinese cuisine from several different provinces, Hu is dedicated to maintaining the bold, thrilling flavors of his native fare, and passing along his passion to diners who might need a spicy jolt to remember how vibrant this food can be.

The space formerly housing hip Asian hot spot Little Buddha has been beautifully adjusted to dramatic effect, a colorful dining room with high ceilings and regal comfort. Lao Sze Chuan is a traditional Chinese restaurant in that dishes are served family style and meant for sharing, and the menu is organized into hot and cold appetizers, soups, noodles, rice and entrées by protein; it’s best to dabble in each section and try something new along the way.

The restaurant is named for Hu’s birthplace of Sichuan, so the fiery cuisine found there is a great place to start. Sliced beef and maw (stomach lining) and spicy Szechuan rabbit are two cold appetizer dishes that stray to the exotic side but offer deliciously sweltering rewards for those up for the adventure. More familiar options include kung pao shrimp, crispy-caramelized broiled beef tenderloin in spicy Szechuan sauce, and for a taste without those fragrant chilies, delicately flavored tea-smoked duck.

The majesty of Hu’s food is all about moving away from the Americanized, “sweet and sour” version of Chinese food, and bringing in balanced, explosive seasonings that are true to the cuisine’s origins. Tender strips of lamb are laced with cumin in a rich dish. Crispy shrimp in lemon sauce is a nuanced take on familiar honey walnut shrimp, substituting brilliant texture and creaminess for what is usually a cloying sweetness. The house special hot and sour soup is pure pleasure, soothing and soulful.

No one should dine without sampling one of Lao Sze Chuan’s signature chicken dishes. Tony’s three chili chicken mixes perfectly crispy morsels with equal parts spicy and sweet, an ideal compromise. It’s nearly impossible to stop eating them. For those who need a little more kick, the chef’s special dry chili chicken is pure sweat-inducing bliss, tender bits of poultry saturated with smoky, earthy chilies that just won’t quit. This preparation is also applied to lobster to great effect, but when it comes to those favorite sweet crustaceans, you can truly have it your way—with ginger and scallions, Hong Kong-style, steamed with garlic and black bean, lightly fried in a salt-and-pepper batter or in creamy congee.

Pair these dishes with baby bok choy or Chinese broccoli sautéed with garlic and maybe some house special spicy fried rice and your feast is complete.

Open daily from 10 a.m., Lao Sze Chuan also serves some of the best dim sum in Las Vegas, from a refined version of crab Rangoon to sweet corn-covered shrimp balls and juicy, savory pork soup dumplings. The problem with lunching here? You’ll probably want to come back for dinner to get another spicy fix ... which is not such a problem, is it?

Palms, 10 a.m.-midnight Sun.-Thurs., 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Fri.-Sat., dim sum 10 a.m.-3:30 p.m. daily. 702.990.8888