Since the Bellagio’s unveiling in 1998, Todd English’s Olives has been a fixture of the resort’s restaurant lineup. It’s fortunate to have a stellar view of the Fountains of Bellagio, but while the dancing waters may be an initial attraction, the culinary offerings are what really capture visitors.

Your dining experience begins with a duo of the eponymous black olive tapenade and seasoned olives, the former best ladled upon the white chocolate bread, while the latter pairs with practically anything. But don’t fill up on them, because Olives is so much more than just olives.

While two starters—tuna tartare and beef carpaccio—are menu fixtures, Olives provides its own riff on the classics. Tuna tartare is a layered presentation with cucumber salad, crispy rock shrimp, sesame dressing and scallion cream finished with whitefish caviar; the result is a processional of textures and flavors. The beef carpaccio comes adorned with Parmesan, garlic aioli and a balsamic reduction sitting atop a Gorgonzola polenta so good you’ll want to order it alone for the table. On the lighter side, the watermelon salad combines seasonal favorites of heirloom tomatoes and sweet watermelon with arugula and feta cheese in an appealing, flavorful dish.

While Olives is not an Italian restaurant, executive chef Brad Skougard serves some of the Strip’s best house-made pasta. Ricotta ravioli offers up traditional Italian flavors with the inclusion of sweet Italian sausage and a roasted tomato basil sauce, while butternut squash tortelli conveys hints of sweetness without being overly cloying, with a rich brown butter sauce and a sprinkling of amaretto cookies. Linguine alle vongole combines littleneck clams with the pasta in a garlic and white wine sauce. Best of all might be the handcrafted gnocchi with pulled chicken breast and toasted pine nuts in a creamy pesto. The chicken is well seasoned, while the pine nuts prove to be an excellent foil to the airy pasta.

Entrée-wise, the grilled sirloin is a classic that has been served to visitors overlooking the fountains since the venue opened. One taste and you’ll understand why the dish has persevered. Succulent steak is served with English peas, country ham, Roquefort cream and a sweet and sour shitake glaze. Slightly salty, sharp and sweet, the ingredients commingle in each bite, elevating the sirloin beyond typical steakhouse fare.

The sea scallops are served with a cabernet reduction, truffled potato purée and sautéed sea beans, relatively unusual but beautifully bright.

But Olives is not about food alone, so take a moment from the fountain backdrop to peruse the inventive cocktail offerings. The simple Pineapple Doli riffs on the famous Capital Grille Stoli Doli, substituting Absolut for the eponymous Stolichnaya. While not rhyming, the pineapple-infused vodka nonetheless delivers an equally appealing experience as its predecessor.

The Life is Fresh cocktail combines the Asian undertones of Bombay Sapphire East gin with cucumber, grapes, house-made sour mix and a spicy sugar rim. The well-balanced cocktail provides a symphony of flavors; only fitting in consideration of the concerto that awaits you from both the fountains and the kitchen.

Bellagio, lunch 11 a.m.-2:45 p.m. daily, dinner 5-10:30 p.m. daily, bar menu 3-5 p.m. 702.693.8865