Like moths to a flame, celebrity chefs are drawn to the Strip’s neon lights. Many are only visitors who occasionally drop into their namesake venues. But there are exceptions—chefs with names on the marquees and knives in the kitchens. Probably the most prominent of these is the man of many talents, tireless advocate of sustainable seafood, Top Chef Masters alum and dedicated Las Vegas resident Rick Moonen. Still at the helm of his restaurant RM Seafood in The Shoppes at Mandalay Place, he’s celebrating a decade in Vegas. And he wants you to join him.

If you’re so inclined, begin your seafaring voyage with a tour of the raw bar where kusshi oysters may await. Invoking the essence of the ocean, these treats are highlighted with the addition of diced cucumber, tobiko (flying fish roe) and a shallot-ginger mignonette. The combination simply serves to enhance the bivalve’s salinity without overwhelming its gentleness.

Elsewhere, a kombu-cured branzino crudo delivers clean flavors while shaved fennel and lime caviar offer sharpness to the otherwise mild seafood.

Moonen’s charred octopus practically melts in your mouth in a fork-tender presentation. Combined with fingerling potatoes, cherry tomatoes and a tart-and-creamy lemon aioli, the smoky dish delivers an octopus experience unlike any other. His pan-seared local bass, too, is one of the best examples of this dish we've tried.

Not all of Moonen’s successes are limited to the ocean. Outside of a fabulous scallop fish sauce, his Thai green papaya salad is more accustomed to land than sea. With spicy chilies exuding a hint of heat, the cool, shredded papaya mixes with bean sprouts and peanuts and inexplicably cools while simultaneously bringing beads of sweat to your brow. It’s enough to make you, at least momentarily, lose sight of the surrounding succulence.

But soon enough you’ll be reminded exactly what is Moonen’s calling with the arrival of everything-crusted big eye tuna. Seared just a tad beyond rare, it’s crusted with a combination of white and black sesame, dried garlic, onion and Maldon sea salt, giving the fish a crunchiness that serves as a proper foil to the tuna’s tenderness. If only the everything bagels at your local deli could taste this good.

Consider ending your meal with a sticky toffee pudding rivaling that of a famous Scotsman from across town, with the inclusion of B&B (or Bénédictine and brandy) and accompanied by butter pecan ice cream.

For more than a decade, Moonen has been welcoming visitors into his home and entertaining them while educating in the same swoop—preaching that sustainable seafood can be just as delicious as the endangered kind and proving it on the plate.

The Shoppes at Mandalay Place, 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. daily. 702.632.9300