Native Spaniard Julian Serrano is a veteran of the Vegas dining scene. Lured to the Las Vegas Valley by Steve Wynn for the Bellagio’s opening in 1998, almost two decades later the celebrity chef has a trio of Strip restaurants with the recent unveiling of Bellagio’s Lago. And with it, he ventures across the Mediterranean from his homeland to another peninsula where he showcases cuisine from throughout Italy.

In Lago, Serrano has developed a very South Beach feel, apropos for a venue opening onto the famed Bellagio Fountains, which feel practically oceanside themselves. Awash in whites and splashes of color, the room is contemporary without being over the top. And if you’re lucky enough to be seated on the patio, you’ve got one of the best seats on the Strip.

You might consider beginning with the al cipollotto e speck pizza, which combines smoky, razor-thin cured meat with sweet onions and creamy buffalo ricotta in a well-balanced starter. Even more impressive might be the crudos, where the fish is respected with accompaniments that complement and don’t overwhelm. Skuna Bay salmon, adorned with crispy capers, offers interplay of textures and hints of salinity in the salmon. While the ahi tuna in the tonno is enhanced with citric acid from orange segments, in the capasanta, both texture and acidity are explored as thinly sliced scallop is draped over pistachio slivers and topped with blood orange pieces.

Probably the most surprising dish on the menu is the polpo e fregola al nero, which delivers octopus alongside a Sardinian couscous dark with squid ink and finished with salty bottarga (cured fish roe). The tentacles are grilled fork tender while the couscous is hearty with a hint of salt in one of Vegas’ best presentations of the increasingly popular seafood. For another great ocean treat, try the langostino; broiled shell-on for a hint of char and finished with Meyer lemon, it’s a clean crustacean treat.

Along more traditional lines, are a variety of pastas including textured malloreddos, with the gnocchi-like pasta effectively sopping up rich, pork sausage-filled tomato sauce. Gnocchi alla romana are a flat, circular version of the familiar pasta, infused with a light, sharply flavored gorgonzola sauce. Desserts include concoctions with mouthwatering giandujotto chocolate.

Cocktails were devised under the watchful eye of Bellagio master mixologist Ricardo Murcia in conjunction with Serrano. In particular, Serrano wanted Murcia to create a series of libations where the garnish was as memorable as the drink itself. So at Lago, you’ll find a leather-aged Negroni with Woodford Reserve mixed with Cynar and garnished with a house-smoked cherry and a mojito comprised of sweet vermouth, pineapple, passion fruit juice and prosecco finished with passion fruit “caviar” in a dried pineapple cone.

But that’s not all, because Murcia wanted to raise the bar without being pretentious. By paying attention to details you might not even notice, he’s achieved just that in developing syrup, ice and even straw programs for the venue. And like the cocktails, this attention to detail throughout the venue results in a memorable Lago experience.

Bellagio, 5-11 p.m. Sun.-Thurs., 5 p.m.-midnight Fri.-Sat. 702.693.8865