Last year, Las Vegas diners were elated at the return of the celebrity chef Daniel Boulud, after a four-year hiatus from the Strip, with the opening of The Venetian’s DB Brasserie. And now, after little more than a year, the arrival of executive chef Vincent Pouessel elicits equal excitement. The recent transition is a huge change in the local dining scene since the Brittany native was a fixture at Mandalay Bay’s Aureole since 2003. But DB Brasserie offers the perfect backdrop against which to showcase his skills.

As Pouessel settles into his role, expect to see the depth of his experience, which includes time at the Michelin-starred Le Jules Verne restaurant inside the Eiffel Tower. During a recent visit, he provided a glimpse into what may come. A riff on prosciutto and melon included buttery Dutch Harbor king crab, jicama and smoked steelhead roe for an interplay of sweet and salty, while seared scallops served atop Parmesan risotto with black truffles was textbook in presentation and incredibly complex for such a straightforward dish. He hopes to present these and other dishes as nightly specials or even as upcoming menu fixtures.

While diners await the arrival of Pouessel's new dishes into the rotation, they can feel comforted by a menu that is comprised of essentially Boulud’s greatest hits—with some surprises. For instance, crispy Thai calamari may not be the most likely candidate to appear on a French bistro menu and yet you’ll find the Asian appetizer with coconut shavings alongside the more traditional oysters on the half shell.

Along more traditional lines, the charred skin on the crispy duck confit prevents the fatty waterfowl from simply falling to pieces on your plate. The same cannot be said for the fork-tender braised chicken “coq au vin”; preparing the bird in red wine not only provides the dish with its characteristic deep color, but also allows the meat to simply fall off the bone at the table. Escargots spätzle combines burgundy snail fricassee and chicken oysters with hazelnuts over house-made spätzle and striking parsley coulis, blending textures and flavors seamlessly. A flatiron steak is tender and flavorful.

Accompany your meal with a libation from the expertly crafted cocktail list. Particularly memorable is the Ex-Pat—a seemingly simple combination of Maker’s Mark over a ginger/vanilla ice sphere. But as your meal progresses and the ice melts, it morphs from alcohol forward to a sweeter, mellower mixture as you prepare for dessert.

And in terms of dessert, decadent chocolate framboise awaits alongside rich, caramel-filled caramel fondant. The former is accompanied by raspberry chip gelato, while the latter is complemented by coffee-caramel gelato. And freshly baked madeleines never cease to succeed, arriving hot to your table and highlighted with hints of lemon.

As Pouessel further influences the menu, expect to be entranced by the Frenchman’s take. But whether you visit DB Brasserie for a peek into the traditional French cuisine or rather choose to wander the globe, rest assured you’ll be in the presence of a capable travel companion on your culinary journey.

The Venetian, lunch 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Mon.-Fri., brunch 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Sat.-Sun., dinner 5-11 p.m. daily. 702.430.1235