For the longest time, Wolfgang Puck’s Lupo held court in Mandalay Bay, serving a casual Italian menu that visitors and locals returned for again and again. It was rather sad to see the space dark and Lupo closed. But it was very exciting when Caramá opened its doors in the same space with an inviting, elegant new mien.

Inside, you’ll find a space and menu inspired by Puck’s memories of his mother, with new dishes and twists on signature Puck items.

“My mother was a chef, and living so close to the Italian border, she was influenced by the culture and food of Northern Italy. Our meals were always simple, and fresh, right from the garden,” said Puck in a recent press statement.

The décor here is inspired by Italy, as are many of the restaurants in the Puck empire, and Milan in particular, with tile, marble chandeliers and brass light fixtures. The main bar is huge, with colorful floral wallpaper and a large, vintage-style mirror behind. A plethora of tables ensures a lively atmosphere while dining.

A center area is dominated by a salumeria, where a glass case displays cured meats and cheese, and a bar invites you to sit down for a beverage (perhaps an aperitivo during cocktail hour, offered from 3-5 p.m. daily). The salumeria serves up a variety of platters to snack on or start your meal with, and there’s even a veggie platter.

Starters here include the prime beef carpaccio, tuna tartare and Bagna Cauda del Contadino, a garlic and anchovy dip that is a delicacy for some (served with farmer’s market veggies for that dipping). A signature item on any Puck menu is pizza and, in this restaurant, you’ll find a pizza oven slightly tucked away, issuing forth goodies like classic margherita, pizza ai fiori di zucca (with scamorza and squash blossoms), and pizza alla diavola, with spicy salume and caramelized onions.

Pastas include lasagne al forno, an oven-baked dish layering the pasta and a beef Bolognese sauce; chitarra al nero con granchio, squid ink chitarra pasta with crab, cherry tomatoes and peppers; and linguine with Manila clams. Risotto all’aragosta (lobster risotto) is constructed with Maine lobster and tomatoes, while a ricotta gnocchi features handmade pillows with wild mushrooms and garlic.

For your entrée, choose the porchetta Romana, and you may be raving about the roasted pork belly until well after dessert. Costoletta d’agnello alla griglia (lamb chops) come several to an order, and you’ll need to ward off those at the table who insist on sharing after the starters have been demolished. If you do like sharing, you’ll find the bistecca alla Fiorentina, a 32-ounce porterhouse, is perfect. Creamy polenta and wood-roasted carrots are good sides to indulge in.

Lemon cake is a specialty in Amalfi, and at Caramá, the Illusione del Limone takes that dish and makes it even better. From a selection of lemons, choose one, and wait as it’s sliced open to reveal a center of lemon curd and soft cake. This is one lemon that won’t make you pucker—just smile.

Mandalay Bay. 702.740.5522. mandalaybay.mgmresorts.com

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