Oscar’s creates a welcoming atmosphere
Welcome to Old School Las Vegas. Though Oscar’s Beef, Booze, Broads has only been open since 2011, it’s nailed that nostalgic feel. Somehow, Oscar’s, known as “The Happiest Steakhouse in the Universe,” has captured everything right about former Las Vegas mayor Oscar B. Goodman, who was known as “the Happiest Mayor in the Universe.”
The walls of the Plaza restaurant are adorned with pictures of Oscar mingling with various celebrities. The classic dining room, under the large dome, has a feel all its own. The place advertises “beef, booze and broads.” We’re going to focus on the first two.
The cocktail menu features the signature What Oscar Drinks—described as “Bombay Sapphire, More Bombay Sapphire.” The man famous for drinking gin martinis goes full blast here. What Carolyn Drinks, which refers to his wife and current mayor Carolyn Goodman, is a nice riff on a Cosmopolitan—the citrus really stands out. And the creative Downtown Smash features vodka, lime, crushed strawberries and blackberries. It’s fresh and easy to down.
Start your meal with Johnny Quinn’s crab cakes, one of the best versions to be found in the city. The fresh lump crab meat is front and center with stone ground mustard and pepper remoulade for dipping. Mob meatballs are made from roasted chicken, veggies and Parmigiana cheese and are lighter than most other iterations.
Oscar’s chopped salad with onion straws is a salad with the type of excess the former politician can be proud of. Chopped romaine, avocado, tomato, candied pecans, cucumber, zucchini, squash and pink peppercorn ranch dressing fill out most of the dish, but those fried onion straws on top, which you can also order as a side dish, seem addictive.
For the main event, the surf and turf is a platter to be reckoned with. The meat is a tender and rather large ribeye cap, a cut that seemed to explode with popularity last year. Try it and you’ll understand why. The turf element is comprised of stuffed shrimp, here again with that high-quality crab.
If traditional is your bag, the Sally’s New York strip is 14 ounces of juicy prime meat, seasoned properly, letting the beef do the talking. While the meat is so good it is unnecessary to get a topping, if you must, the Oscar is a combination of thick cuts of asparagus and more crab meat in a Béarnaise sauce.
Another standout side, Jose Leonardo’s roasted corn brûlée, combines corn and béchamel sauce, and like the dessert, torches them together. Brussels sprouts come with bacon and caramelized onions. Oscar’s also recently added new items to the menu, like vegetarian lasagna, lamb chop and bone-in ribeye.
Speaking of dessert, don’t miss the pumpkin sweet potato praline tart, both rustic and tasty, with pumpkin-spiced latte ice cream. Chocolate lovers should look to the chocolate marquee, mousse-wrapped chocolate cake topped with gold-dusted chocolate ganache. It’s decadent, over the top, and with just a bit of that throwback feel, the way everything good at Oscar’s should be.
Plaza, opens at 5 p.m. daily, lounge opens at 4 p.m. daily. 702.386.7227