After more than seven years without change as one of the original members of Aria’s opening restaurant lineup, Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s eponymous Jean Georges Steakhouse underwent a bit of an upgrade, shuttering for a little over a month earlier this summer. The reopening unveiled cosmetic touches creating a more cosmopolitan space while amplifying the swanky New York vibe.

Even the venue soundtrack was revamped with an eclectic mix including Tom Tom Club, "Cavern" from Liquid Liquid (for those of y’all keeping score at home, that’s the "White Lines" revamp from Jon Favreau’s Chef) and even Daft Punk. But more importantly, the remodel was accompanied by a menu overhaul spearheaded by chef de cuisine Sean Griffin. And the result imparts a distinctive personality unlike any other steakhouse in town.

Vongerichten has always been known for Asian-infused influences, and Griffin’s new menu doesn’t shy away from the Far East. Paper-thin slices of meaty wagyu carpaccio arrive draping earthy black truffle fritters with a touch of lime salt providing a citric respite to the umami-laden dish. Sushi atop crispy rice, on a recent visit, included hamachi tinged with chipotle mayonnaise and salmon accented with the refreshing addition of mint. And the miso-yuzu glaze on the Chilean sea bass delivers funky citrus flavor to the flaky, buttery fish. Griffin demonstrates a deft hand by imparting flavor without overwhelming the delicate seafood.

But Griffin certainly doesn’t eschew the traditional steakhouse trappings either, particularly those found in high-end venues. Osetra caviar is skillfully perched atop a layered egg toast so creamy and buttery, you won’t be faulted if you mistake it for grilled cheese. But the roe’s salinity reminds you this is nothing as simple as a sandwich off the griddle. Foie gras is pepper-crusted, garnished with marcona almonds and accompanied by a strawberry-rhubarb jam serving as a foil to the fatty liver’s richness. And the Dungeness crab cake is brightened with a sweet snap pea remoulade, which complements the crustacean.

And lest you forget this is a steakhouse first and foremost, Vongerichten certainly puts meat front and center. The 42-ounce wagyu tomahawk is seriously large, exuding as much flavor as attention-grabbing presence as it's brought to your table. Smoked wagyu brisket also served tableside is an epiphany, as it’s a dish you rarely find on a menu—most restaurants wouldn’t dare smoke such an expensive cut of meat. But the fatty cut readily absorbs smoke flavor, resulting in an unctuous, fork-tender dish worthy of a small Texas town.

But the crown jewel here is the A5 Kobe beef. Jean Georges is one of only nine U.S. restaurants where you can get the real thing. And with a trio of them right here in Vegas, the Strip is arguably the Steakhouse Capitol of the World. The heavily marbled delicacy is rich and immaculate, meaty and buttery with each forkful. So regardless of the tariff, don’t pass up such a one-of-a-kind dining opportunity while visiting.

And we hope you have room for Vongerichten’s market apple pie. The flaky, latticed crust adorned with sugar arrives in a cast-iron skillet and is finished with maple-pecan ice cream, a decadent dessert worthy of finishing an epic dining experience.

Aria, 5-10:30 p.m. daily. 877.230.2742