Veranda delivers inviting Italian cuisine
One of the most relaxing restaurants in Vegas has to be Veranda at Four Seasons. It’s laidback and approachable, yet still elegant, much like the dishes. Chef Joel Ott, a veteran of some of the most revered restaurants on the Las Vegas Strip, conveys a passion for his craft in the Italian menu served here—and you may even detect a hint of his Midwest upbringing in additional offerings.
Feel free to indulge in a glass of prosecco while perusing the menu; it’s a nice way to get in the mood for your meal. You may want to start that with a little antipasti of ahi crudo, thinly sliced with blood orange and pine nuts; a little spiciness is courtesy of the Fresno chili. Or perhaps you prefer a soup course—and that changes depending on what is in season. Recently, a carrot-ginger concoction with coconut foam atop caused the diners at our table to scoop up every spoonful.
The pear salad is particularly delightful, with the fruit poached in port wine and the greens accented with a light truffle vinaigrette and truffle pecorino, but beets with pistachio pesto and soft robiola cheese make a worthy choice also. (Come for lunch and you can try the steak salad, with roasted root veggies and Gorgonzola).
Entreés run the gamut, from a variety of casual woodfired pizzas to decadent stuffed veal Milanese with truffles and King Trumpet mushrooms. If you choose pasta as your main, the tagliatelle with porcini mushrooms features handmade pasta with a garlic cream sauce, Italian sausage and black truffle—and a glass of pinot noir will help balance the richness of the dish. If you’re vegetarian, ask that it be prepared sans sausage; the strong truffle flavor makes the dish complete even without the meat. One of the signature dishes at Veranda is the unusual pasta in a jar: Lobster, calamari and shrimp are combined with artichoke and tomato, all in seafood broth.
The Scottish salmon seems a little different than the typical Italian fish, with salsa verde, a lemon emulsion and a bit of oregano. Another option for seafood lovers is the polpo alla griglia—as attractive to look at as you may find they are to eat. Steak, chicken and branzino help round out the menu.
Desserts are worth indulging in here, from a semifreddo to rich tiramisu with candied Amarena cherries and a pumpkin pie cheesecake. A piquant kiwi sauce dressing the tiramisu plate perfectly pairs with the accompanying cappuccino gelato. The “no-bake” cheesecake creates a fancy little picture, with a mound of cheesecake atop a delish honey and almond graham cracker crust. Go ahead and order an espresso or cup of coffee to sip along with this glorious ending—or perhaps another prosecco, just to make sure it’s as good as you thought.
Four Seasons Hotel, 6:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Fri., 7 a.m.-10 p.m. Sat.-Sun., breakfast buffet 8 a.m.-1 p.m. Sat.-Sun. 702.632.5121