For decades, Wolfgang Puck’s Spago was, quite simply, a must-visit inside The Forum Shops at Caesars Palace. In addition to being the first celebrity restaurant on the Las Vegas Strip, it offered an amazing menu and great people-watching opportunities. And in a win-win scenario, Spago moved to Bellagio, where it continues that success, and taking its spot is one of the best newcomers to the Strip: Water Grill, a seafood spot that just might become your favorite new haunt.
The first thing that strikes you is the space’s welcoming atmosphere, which has been completely remodeled from its Spago days. Water Grill’s brightly lit interior is dominated by light-colored woods and marine décor; you feel like socializing the minute you enter. But you’re likely to spend quite a bit of time scanning the menu instead—the choices here can be dizzying, as Water Grill’s vast selection of seafood (oysters, sushi and much more) is so fresh supply can fluctuate at any given time, and menus are often changed twice daily.
To help with that overwhelming feeling, relax with a cocktail. Among the standouts here are the Boulevard, a flavorful combo of fresh strawberry and lemon juice blended with vodka with a sprig of tarragon, and Piccadilly Circus, an Aperol-forward concoction with Pimm’s No. 1, cucumbers, fresh lemon and tonic. (Bartender’s specials are always on offer, so be sure to inquire.)
Whether enjoying lunch or dinner here, make sure to include at least one of the menu’s amazing seafood appetizers. Wild Spanish octopus, charcoal grilled to perfection, is almost too attractive to eat, served with tomato, feta and niçoise olives. The king crab California roll pairs perfectly with brown butter nikiri and fried leeks, and will likely have you and your dining companions negotiating over who gets the last piece. If you’re a fan of fish and chips or fish tacos, get ready to smile. Both iterations here, made with Atlantic cod, are about as light and satisfying as you could expect.
It’s time for the main course, and your journey can either continue with surf (including a truly stunning presentation of wild Ross Sea Chilean sea bass, served with butternut squash gnocchi and sage brown butter) or, if your tastes veer more toward turf, a nice steak. Water Grill does not skimp on this option, offering everything from filet mignon and strip steak to a “cowboy” ribeye and American and Japanese wagyu, all charcoal grilled. Be sure to pair whatever you order with grilled broccolini, mixed with Chinese sausage, and crispy polenta with melted fontina cheese.
There isn’t a single wrong turn on the dessert menu, but you’ll be eternally grateful you order either of the caramel bread pudding (served with alaca red sea salt and a perfect ending to a meal) or the pot de crème, absolutely overwhelming in the best way possible with its grouping of chocolate crème, chocolate sorbet and chocolate biscotti, accompanied by house-made whipped cream and cocoa nibs. The new kid on the block has arrived in style.
The Forum Shops at Caesars, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Sun.-Thurs., 11 a.m.-midnight Fri.-Sat. 702.832.4777
