Chicken biryani with raita
Wandering through the Rio’s Carnival-inspired interior, you may happen upon an oasis of tranquility just off the casino floor. If you note Indian tunes and fragrant spices wafting through the air, you’ve just come across Royal India Bistro.
If you think you’re having a feeling of déjà vu, it’s because you are; for a number of years, the space was occupied by Gaylord Indian Restaurant. Recently reopened after a brief remodel, Royal India Bistro is a revamped, revitalized version of Gaylord, maintaining the same ownership and chef while shifting the menu to focus on northern Indian cuisine more commonly encountered in the States.
While you’re perusing the menu, you should start with an Indian beverage. The Indian beers include the more common Kingfisher and Taj Mahal alongside a rarity—Haywards 5000—with surprisingly high alcohol content. You certainly won’t find it in your local supermarket. If you’re not looking for an adult beverage, then partake of a mango lassi—an amalgam of sweet and sour in a single beverage.
You should begin with the Chicken 65—a house specialty. Flaming red pieces of chicken practically glow on the plate with neon brightness, combining a myriad of spices—15, in case you’re wondering—to achieve a complex flavor profile.
Vegetable samosas are also a notable starter. Served in pairs, these enlarged, vegetable-laden pyramids of airy dough are practically a meal in themselves; be sure to pair them with the forceful tamarind chutney served to your table. And the biryani comes with meat or vegetables over saffron-flavored rice.
Looking to sample a variety of dishes? The Royal Grill combines selections from across the menu including tandoori chicken, garlic chicken shish kabobs, rack of lamb and king shrimp. Served on a sizzling platter in a mound of meaty deliciousness, one can’t help but think of Indian fajitas with naan substituting for tortillas.
Speaking of naan, the options are also diverse. Royal India Bistro’s garlic naan is particularly well spiced; however, the most intriguing version is Kashmiri. Stuffed with nuts, raisins, cherries and coconut, the dish sounds chaotic but is balanced with a hint of sweetness—particularly good for complementing the spicy dishes you’ll undoubtedly encounter.
If you’re not intrigued by piles of meat, then you can choose from a variety of masalas dotting the menu, including a memorable tomato- and cream-based tandoori shrimp rendition or even goat or mutton versions. Since no two masalas are the same—the term actually refers generically to a collection of spices—you can select multiples without overlapping.
Do save room for worthwhile, albeit limited, dessert options. Choices include gulab jamun (small, deep-fried milk solid balls served in sweet rose-water syrup), pistachio kulfi (an Indian riff on ice cream skewing towards sherbet) and kheer, a sweet rice pudding dish. All are well-done versions of traditional offerings, very much like the rest of Royal India’s menu. Not much else you need in a foray from the casino floor.
Rio, Lunch buffet 11 a.m.-3 p.m., happy hour 3-5 p.m., dinner 5-10:30 p.m. daily. 702.777.2277
