Of all the advancements in steakhouse technology over the years, the 500-degree plate is perhaps the most unheralded. Delivered to the table with utmost care by trained servers, it demands an amount of respect equal to that care. It deserves some awe, too, but that’s a more involuntary reaction—especially once you see it sizzle some of the corn-fed, custom-aged beef that’s been placed upon it.
Ruth’s Chris Steak House is a familiar name among the beef cognoscenti, and its Las Vegas location, in the former Range Steakhouse space at Harrah’s overlooking the Strip, is as prime as the steaks it serves, its plates as hot as a Saturday-night reservation.
Founded in New Orleans in the mid-’60s, Ruth’s Chris now boasts more than 130 locations worldwide, including outposts in El Salvador, Hong Kong and the United Arab Emirates. But what is it about this steakhouse that translates so well?
Approachability, for one. The salads all carry names familiar enough to reach even the most casual diner, but they’re executed at a high level and bursting with flavor. A crisp Caesar lets the romaine hearts do the talking. Ruth’s chop salad reveals nuances with each bite, resulting in lick-the-plate-clean goodness.
Seared ahi tuna
The traditional steak cuts, too, go for the gold: a well-marbled ribeye, juicy New York strip and tender filet are all filling and would make the case on any temperature plate, sizzling or not. Throw some shrimp or a lobster tail in the mix and the meal becomes the very model of a classic Las Vegas dining experience.
Of course, approachability will only get you so far. There have to be a few innovative minds in the kitchen to keep the legacy of Ruth Fertel in good standing, a few tricks up the sleeve to keep the next generation interested. To that end, there are a series of appetizers that just might be the highlights of the menu—blasphemy for a restaurant chain built on succulent steaks, we know.
A dish of barbecued shrimp transports the traditional shrimp cocktail from the heart of the Strip into the heart of Bourbon Street. The seared ahi tuna is a strong rendition of the oft-maligned starter, with its seared, spice-crusted exterior of particular note. Another warhorse, fried calamari, gets some added zip from an Asian chili sauce that puts the typical marinara to shame.
But maybe, after all is said and done, it’s the cherry on top that has made Ruth’s Chris a global phenomenon. Maybe it’s—could it be?—dessert that pushes these meals into the red, almost demanding return business.
Banana cream pie
That Southern staple, banana cream pie, makes an appearance, as does traditional cheesecake and crème brûlée, but look out for some unlikely treats, too. The bread pudding is all gooey and homey, filling in all the holes (should there be any) the previous courses may have missed. For our money, it’s the fresh berries and sweet cream that crowns our ideal Ruth’s Chris meal: simple, fresh raspberries, blackberries and blueberries swimming in a sumptuous crème anglaise.
It’s a finale that leaves you satiated and smiling, whether you’re here at Harrah’s in Las Vegas or somewhere halfway around the globe.
Harrah’s, 5-10:30 p.m. daily. 877.346.4642
