Ever wonder how so much deliciousness could be in a single, simple bite? Consider Koi’s crispy rice, a dish that looks appealing if not all-out drool-inducing. There isn’t much to it, right? Just a neat pebble of pan-fried sushi rice topped with smooth, velvety spicy tuna—the stuff from the middle of your favorite roll—and a half-coin of raw jalapeño.
But that doesn’t do this dish justice. The fresh, sweet, sharply spicy fish mixture melts in your mouth, the perfect counterpoint to the crispy rice nugget, sticky and moist in the middle. Deep notes of caramelized soy sauce dance their way through, adding a savory punch to balance the raw heat of the jalapeño. Still simple? Tastes like a masterpiece to me.
Balance and simplicity are hallmarks of Japanese food, while explosive flavors in such tiny packages are part of the popular modern take on this reverent cuisine. Koi is one of the leading practitioners of this approach, with restaurant locations in Los Angeles, New York and Bangkok. Sometimes reminiscent of the genre-defining Nobu, the food at Koi leans toward sleek and playful, a lively cooking strategy that provides an obvious juxtaposition to the almost temple-like décor of the Las Vegas restaurant at Planet Hollywood Resort. In other cities, Koi is a hot spot; in Las Vegas, it’s something of a hidden jewel, sparkling in a sea of well-known and busy Asian fusion offerings.
Roasted duck breast
Find your way to Planet Hollywood’s mezzanine level and swing past the swanky Strip House steak joint to find this peaceful destination. Enter under three golden Buddhas and spend some time in Koi’s circular, tranquil cocktail lounge, where happy hour includes a variety of half-off signature drinks and appetizers. Depending on your mood, opt for the opulent main dining room or the bustling sushi bar. The full menu is available at both.
After you’ve devoured one, maybe two plates of the crispy rice, seek out more shareable bites: a soft shell crab salad decorated with spicy cream and ponzu sauces, creamy rock shrimp tempura with a spicy-crispy kick, or perhaps the richly dressed hamachi fusion, ribbons of raw, delicate fish doused with soy yuzu and truffle oil. Classic pot stickers with sweet ponzu dipping sauce are another favorite, as are ethereal edamame dumplings in an absolutely lovely mushroom-mirin broth.
For the hardcore sushi lover, Koi’s signature rolls offer ultimate combinations: the surf and turf with Kobe beef and lobster, a baked crab roll, or the return of those addictive tempura-fried spicy rock shrimp in hand roll form. Traditional hand and cut rolls with everything from bay scallops to eel and avocado are available, as are your favorite fishes in sashimi form or with sushi rice.
Entrée-style dishes are easy to share, too, if you’re willing to part with a portion of your miso-bronzed black cod, an iconic dish done to a turn at Koi. There are also sautéed tiger prawns in a sweet glaze, sesame-encrusted lobster tail with bok choy and sesame-yuzu butter and wonderfully steamed Chilean sea bass with bright bits of ginger and shitake mushroom.
For those in need of hearty satisfaction, Koi handles cow surprisingly well, with wasabi-braised short ribs and grilled skirt steak at the ready.
Planet Hollywood Resort, 5:30-10:30 p.m. Sun.-Thurs., 5:30-11:30 p.m. Fri.-Sat. 702.454.4555
