The food and beverage industry professionals who assemble the wondrous restaurant collections for Las Vegas casino-resorts are masters of culinary strategy. Offering diverse dining options is a priority at each and every stop along the Strip, and yet the process of choosing what will be served where is somewhat intuitive. So many of us look forward to a memorably juicy steak, pristine dishes plated by a French master or a homey Italian dinner when visiting Vegas, and these tasty obligations can leave other, more exotic flavors out in the cold.
But not Thai food, at least not since Aria debuted the brilliant Lemongrass restaurant in late 2009. It was the first true Thai restaurant on the Strip, and four years later, still helmed by executive chef Krairit Krairavee, its authentic flavors are brighter and bolder than ever. To easily demonstrate its traditional style, Lemongrass recently installed a signature tasting menu ($59 per person, $29 beverage pairing available) highlighting familiar flavors. Dishes include the chicken satay with peanut sauce and cucumber, tom yam hed soup with mushroom and galangal root, yellow curry chicken spiced with turmeric, and spicy-sweet basil beef.
Chicken satay
Peacefully set off the main casino near the Aria’s luxurious Sky Suites, the restaurant’s design nods to a vintage silk factory with its loomlike decorations, patterns and shapes created by woven rope. Its serene surroundings are ideal for a refined lunch or a special occasion dinner, casual yet beautiful. While traditional food is the focus, there are plenty of modern touches, including a signature cocktail menu. Experience the refreshing Watermelon Caipiroska, for example, or the creamy, citrusy Chai Spice.
At Lemongrass you’ll find all the dishes one might regularly devour at any friendly neighborhood Thai restaurant, only here they are done to a turn every time. Grilled Malaysian-style skewers, satay, come in six varieties of meat, and Thai-style chicken wings achieve the ideal crispy-juicy balance. Explore the most authentic dishes for a taste of homestyle cooking—perhaps some addictive curried fish cakes, a traditional crab omelet with soft-cooked eggs and basil leaves, or marinated and grilled pork neck—a richly flavored textural odyssey—with tamarind sauce. This kitchen’s version of tom kha soup, tender chicken swimming in an ambrosial blend of coconut milk and lemongrass, is smooth and soothing, one of the best in the city.
Consistency may be the most impressive element at Lemongrass, whether it’s the simple spicy ribeye salad yam neua yang or the complex rainbow of richness contained in duck red curry. Other Asian specialties also find a home here, including Vietnamese pho beef noodle soup and Beijing-style white noodles in minced pork meat sauce. A tickle of fusion appears when Thai flavors are applied to elite ingredients; Maine lobster is tossed in a sizzling wok with ginger and scallions, and delicate cod is steamed with garlic and lime and accented with chilies and mint. Every plate of food demonstrates the most meaningful principal of Thai cuisine: the incredible balance of hot, sour, sweet and salty.
Lemongrass has moved beyond being just the first Thai restaurant on the Strip. Now, it’s a must-try Las Vegas dining experience.
Aria, 11 a.m.-2 a.m. daily. 877.230.2742
