As a veteran of the Las Vegas scene, restaurateurs Michael and Jenna Morton have entertained diners for a more than a decade. Just recently, they added to their memorable culinary collection with Crush at the MGM Grand. The venue’s tagline of “Eat. Drink. Love.” should be easily accomplished from the skillful menu assembled under the watchful eyes of the Mortons and executive chef William DeMarco.
Among the offerings on Crush’s menu is the roasted cauliflower, a visual kaleidoscope of both the white and purple varieties combined with a seamless mélange of chili, garlic and mint. If you didn’t enjoy the vegetable as a kid, DeMarco must not have been cooking for you, so go ahead and give it a try now.
Crush’s small plate selections showcase the restaurant’s diversity. Littleneck clams are served swimming in an addictive chili coconut broth—just make sure you have enough bread set aside to sop up the bowl—while octopus ceviche combines acidity and spice with grapefruit chunks and pickled jalapeños. A little heavier are the ricotta gnocchi—airy potato pasta is presented atop a pea purée and layered with shredded braised short ribs. And an interesting play on a breakfast favorite is available for dinner in the form of a sea scallop Benny, although DeMarco’s riff is a step up from the typical presentation. A sunny-side up quail egg is perched upon the scallop and chorizo atop a smoky chipotle hollandaise.
Nutella Squeeze
Entrée selections include lamb sirloin on a celery root purée with bacon-rich Brussels sprouts, and a grilled salmon with oyster mushrooms in a carrot miso broth. DeMarco has a way with purées and broths because both leave you wanting more; once again, these dishes will make you want to clean your plate. Desserts change, but you'll want to try the Nutella Squeeze if it is available—an ice cream sandwich-style dessert with toasted hazelnut, chocolate and Nutella components.
Don’t overlook Crush’s intriguing beer selection, where American microbrews mingle with European offerings; it’s a thoughtful approach for veterans and novice imbibers alike. Highlights include hop-heavy Dogfish Head 90-Minute IPA and robust Firestone Walker Velvet Merlin oatmeal stout. Best of all may be the memorable Oro di Milano Riserva—an Italian-brewed Belgian strong ale not frequently found in the States.
But libations aren’t limited to beers alone, as Crush has assembled a unique group of cocktails. Try the Enamorado combining George Clooney’s Casamigos tequila with blood orange purée and house-made sweet and sour mix; the purée results in a well-balanced, citrusy drink. A little more fruit-forward is the Punch, Drunk, Love. This combination of mint-infused Hendrick’s gin, Lillet Rosé and fresh watermelon and lime juices is a refreshing while surprisingly alcoholic concoction. Beware, or you may end up punch drunk before you know it. “Eat. Drink. Love.” it is!
MGM Grand, 5:30-10:30 p.m. Sun.-Thurs., 5:30-11:30 p.m. Fri.-Sat. 702.891.3222
