Downtown Las Vegas remains the stronghold of old Vegas—a throwback to times past when the Rat Pack ruled and the city was much different than it is now. Opened in 1941, downtown’s El Cortez is one of the city’s oldest properties, and while having recently undergone substantial renovations, it retains an old-school vibe.

And for throwback tastes, there’s no better place to dine than The Flame Steakhouse, located in the center of the property just off the casino floor. From the classic décor and dishes to the live pianist, it harkens back to the days when the mob ran the town and the Strip wasn’t even a concept. The Flame is your classic Las Vegas steakhouse without any of the pretensions. Not unlike the El Cortez itself, the room welcomes all takers with a simple and straightforward menu.

Like Frank and Dean, seafood is a long-standing partner of steak, so it’s no surprise The Flame’s appetizers showcase a variety of options from the great depths. During a recent visit, enormous Crystal Point oysters on the half shell were the nightly selection. Practically the size of your palm, their strong salinity was subdued by the accompanying champagne mignonette. They were also served in the classic oysters Rockefeller presentation, combining spinach, a rich hollandaise sauce and anise-flavored liqueur Pernod, baked with bread crumbs into a decadent dish.

The Flame’s blue crab cakes are a dish that's right at home on the steakhouse menu. Stuffed with chunk crab, the cakes are meaty and flaky with each bite—you’ll be transported to the shores of the Chesapeake Bay with one of the valley’s best takes on the East Coast classic. And as if that weren’t enough, giant panko-crusted crispy shrimp are served with honey Dijon mustard.

From the sea to the land, French onion soup is another classic. This rendition tops a sweet, robust broth with a thick layer of nutty Gruyère. On the roughage side, the Chicago-style garbage salad combines practically everything in the kitchen. The collection of ingredients is like a laundry list of flavors and textures: chopped tomato, artichoke hearts, marinated mushrooms, kalamata olives, Genoa salami, cucumbers, sweet onions, garbanzo beans and cheddar cheese. Combine with a light lemon vinaigrette dressing and you’ve nearly got a meal in that one bowl.

Freshwater walleye pike, a native in northern U.S. waters, is served either grilled or deep-fried. A rarity around these parts, it’s a welcome sight to Midwestern expats and could be worth the visit itself. But since you’re in a steakhouse, you might want to consider the prime rib instead. Served in two different sizes, even the smaller queen cut is ample enough to feed a small army. Consider pairing the juicy cut with the smoky grilled asparagus or the creamed corn with a tasty, charred white cheddar crust.

El Cortez 5-10 p.m. Wed.-Sun., 18+. 702.385.5200