Mastro’s Ocean Club hits all the right notes
It might seem like a strange thing to say: “Let’s go shopping and get a steak!” But, remember, in Las Vegas even the seemingly ordinary is extraordinary. And in this instance, the center in question is The Shops at Crystals—the modern dining and retail destination nestled among the skyscrapers at MGM’s CityCenter—while the steak is from high-end Mastro’s Ocean Club.
Perched high above the center’s ground floor, Mastro’s dining room extends outward into the iconic “tree house” growing from the floor below. A sight to behold, the winding wooden architecture is a stark contrast to the surrounding contemporary white walls. The woodwork-latticed enclosure offers views as tremendous as the meal to come.
As modern as the space may be, the restaurant harks back to the classics, with live piano music and old-school, tuxedo-clad servers who will gladly pour martinis for you tableside. At Mastro’s, the Belvedere martini is accented by either hand-stuffed blue cheese olives or large caper berries—simple accompaniments to a crisp, clean drink. If you’re interested in a little theatrics, then try the off-menu Cosmopolitan; served over a bit of dry ice, this bubbling libation will undoubtedly draw attention to you and your table.
As would be expected from the Ocean Club moniker, Mastro’s offers plenty of seafood. Three jumbo shrimp arrive in the shrimp cocktail, accompanied by sharp and aptly named Atomic Horseradish; its heat provides an appropriate foil to the dish without overwhelming it. The flaky, buttery oreganata-style Chilean is coated in seasoned breadcrumbs and broiled; the flavorful crust creates a fine contrast to the light fish. A bit unexpected is the clear lobster roll. Tempura spiny lobster, mango, red leaf lettuce and spicy mayo are wrapped in sesame rice paper and served atop lobster sauce and chili oil. The result is a well-balanced roll.
Steaks are presented in a unique manner befitting the venue, delivered sizzling atop 400-degree serving plates. In fact, Mastro’s is so serious about this presentation that the plates have a dedicated oven. Try the meaty 28-day wet-aged, corn-fed New York strip with the compound truffle butter for an intense hit of umami. Or choose from the bone-in selections including the KC strip and ribeye, if you’re interested in a tad more marbling. Accompany either one with sides where the ocean presides, such as unctuous lobster mashed potatoes and Alaskan king crab black truffle gnocchi. Mastro's roasted Brussels sprouts are also a perfect accompaniment to the steaks.
Mastro’s signature warm butter cake, accompanied by house-made whipping cream, strawberry coulis and vanilla ice cream, contains a surprise layer of vanilla-tinged cream cheese. It’s decadently delicious with that rich, buttery flavor—a fitting end to a memorable dining experience.
The Shops at Crystals, 5-11 p.m. daily, lounge opens at 4 p.m. 702.798.7115