It’s not the newest kid on the block and that’s just fine with us. Center Cut Steakhouse, like the casino that houses it, walks a line between throwback and modern. The destination upscale eatery in the Flamingo Las Vegas feels as if it could have easily housed the likes of Bugsy Siegel and other slick-suited, fedora-wearing gangsters, you think as you sit in the formal dining room. Then again, maybe you’ll catch a hot DJ chomping down on a steak before a late-night performance.

Start with a nice spritzer to whet the appetite. Belvedere vodka, Cointreau, peach schnapps, simple syrup, lemon juice and sparkling wine combine in this light beverage, which doesn’t overwhelm the palate before the meal. But if you are looking for something sweeter, the Cosmo-Bellini with Absolut Citron vodka, Cointreau, cranberry juice, peach purée and La Marca prosecco will surely satisfy.

During happy hour, from 5-7 p.m. daily, guests can grab some quality appetizers. Mushroom crostini leads the way. The mushrooms are coated in a red-wine demi-glace. Smoky blue cheese offsets the sweetness of the demi and toasty bread offers the textural contrast you need to get max enjoyment from the dish. You also can’t go wrong with deep-fried oysters served on the half shell. The tang of house-made pickles and lemon caper aioli makes this dish pop.

Then amble on over to the dining room and get your meat game on with the pork belly appetizer, basically thick, fancy bacon with a flavorful balsamic bourbon glaze. Crunchy chicharrons adorn the plate for textural contrast, and it’s all served over herbed polenta, which is so tasty it should be offered as a side on its own.

A rustic wedge salad earns originality points with dark red Kumato tomatoes strewn about the plate. Iceberg lettuce, Maytag blue cheese and chipotle bacon complete the base of the dish. The addition of pickled onions separates this version from others.

But you came here for steak, so let’s get to it. There are prime, 28-day wet-aged and 45-day dry-aged cuts to choose from. Dry-aged is an excellent option here, with thick marbling on choice steaks adding extra meatiness. The 18-ounce cowboy bone-in ribeye is a serious piece of meat, prepared simply to let the steak do its own talking. It’s big enough for two, too. Treat yourself to an add-on lobster tail, which comes with clarified butter and lemon but really doesn’t need either as it’s already delicious.

Sides include grilled asparagus, a medley of wild mushrooms that retain a firm texture, crusted mac and cheese (because why wouldn’t you want that?) and a loaded baked potato that could be a meal on its own.

For dessert, do not overlook fried apple pie, with vanilla ice cream and salted caramel sauce. The candy bar features a frozen fudge brownie, milk chocolate crunch and peanut butter nougat, covered in chocolate sauce and smoked salt. That salt makes the whole thing.

Whether you’re old school or entirely of this moment, Center Cut Steakhouse offers meals worthy of any time.

Flamingo, 5-10 p.m. daily. 702.784.8821