b.B.d's keeps flavor building at every juncture
Where do you go when you crave a juicy burger and amazing vegan wings? Wait, let’s back up a step. Have you ever craved vegan wings?
You will if you try the meatless wonders at b.B.d’s (Beers Burgers Desserts). And the good news is you can also get three—soon to be four—different kinds of killer burgers there, too. The New York gastropub found critical acclaim on Long Island and in citywide burger competitions. But it’s the variety of the menu and, more importantly, the quality of that variety that makes it perfect for Las Vegas.
Let’s take the wings, for instance. We’ll revisit those vegan ones in a bit, but for now let’s focus on fowl. There are naked confit wings, boneless wings, Japanese duck drumsticks, saucy wings and, best of all, broiled wings. The last of the bunch are home-style bad boys, coated with chili hot sauce before they are cooked so when they do get broiled, all the flavors penetrate deep into the fowl. Meanwhile, the sauce gets charred and sticks to the outside, giving it a texture and taste unlike any other wing I’ve had in Las Vegas.
The vegan wings—there is a good-sized vegan section on this menu that includes burgers, meatball Parm and cheesesteak sandwiches, among others—are made from seitan that Chef Ralph Perrazzo has imported from Philadelphia from an individual purveyor. Any buffalo wing fan will be happy with the heat and the crunch on these alternative wings. Don’t forget the mozzarella sticks. Each is so thick, it shouldn’t be a surprise if your table lets out a Joey Lawrence-style “Whoa!” upon first sight. And Korean BBQ fries are covered in kimchi, bulgogi and a sunny-side up egg.
As for the burgers, Perrazzo says he traveled the country trying to find the best and then outdo them. The griddle burger is the classic, with the beef getting its crust from the heat of the hot griddle. It's topped with American cheese and accoutrements including griddled onions. The steamed burger is the chef’s homage to a White Castle-style slider, but much higher quality. Finally, the prime dry-aged steakhouse burger is inspired by Perrazzo’s time working at Bradley Ogden years ago in Las Vegas. It’s a proper high-class, two-handed delight.
All the meat, much of which you can see hanging in the butcher’s window upon entry into the restaurant, is prime. Perrazzo sources his meat from the same farm as big-time New York steakhouses Peter Luger’s and Smith & Wollensky. He takes the necks and rear quarters to create his grinds, each with a different percentage of fat to get optimum tastes and textures. The upcoming luncheonette burger will be ground twice, broiled under high heat and be yet another taste unto itself.
And the beer and dessert angle should not be neglected. The beer program has a custom cleaning system and calibrates all its lines to the altitude of the city to ensure the freshest brews around. And those are some delicious beverages, available in several sizes, in cans and even from the cask! Soft-serve ice cream is made on the premises here, with the oversized sundaes being particularly impressive.
Palace Station, noon-midnight daily. 702.367.2411