At Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s eponymous Jean Georges Steakhouse—one of the original members of Aria’s opening restaurant lineup—fans of Vongerichten’s unique style keep the restaurant busy.
Since it opened, the restaurant has underwent cosmetic touches that created a more cosmopolitan space while amplifying the swanky New York vibe. It has also seen a menu overhaul spearheaded by chef de cuisine Sean Griffin, one that’s proven popular—it resulted in a distinctive personality unlike any other steakhouse in town.
Vongerichten has always been known for Asian-infused influences, and Griffin’s menu doesn’t shy away from the Far East. Paper-thin slices of meaty wagyu carpaccio arrive draping earthy black truffle fritters with a touch of lime salt providing a citric respite to the umami-laden dish. Sushi atop crispy rice, on a recent visit, included hamachi tinged with chipotle mayonnaise and salmon accented with the refreshing addition of mint. And the miso-yuzu glaze on the Chilean sea bass delivers citrus flavor to the flaky, buttery fish. Griffin demonstrates a deft hand by imparting flavor without overwhelming the delicate seafood.
But Griffin certainly doesn’t eschew the traditional steakhouse trappings either. Osetra caviar is skillfully perched atop a layered egg toast so creamy and buttery, you won’t be faulted if you mistake it for grilled cheese. But the roe’s salinity reminds you this is nothing as simple as a sandwich off the griddle. Foie gras is pepper-crusted, garnished with Marcona almonds and accompanied by a strawberry-rhubarb jam serving as a foil to the fatty liver’s richness.
And lest you forget that this is a steakhouse first and foremost, Vongerichten certainly puts meat front and center. The 42-ounce wagyu tomahawk is seriously large, exuding as much flavor as attention-grabbing presence as it’s brought to your table.
Smoked wagyu brisket also served tableside is an epiphany, as it’s a dish you rarely find on a menu—most restaurants wouldn’t dare smoke such an expensive cut of meat. But the fatty cut readily absorbs smoke flavor, resulting in an unctuous, fork-tender dish. A favorite with guests is also Japanese F1 beef, in filet, New York and ribeye cuts. The lush Mishima wagyu ribeye cap will also thrill you.
But the crown jewel here may be the A5 Kobe beef. The heavily marbled delicacy is rich and immaculate, meaty and buttery with each forkful. So regardless of the tariff, don’t pass up such a dining opportunity.
Although Vongerichten’s market apple pie won’t be back on the menu until the end of September, you don’t need to feel deprived. The tasty blueberry and rhubarb cornbread cobbler comes with blackberry-crème fraîche ice cream, creating a rustic dessert worthy of finishing an epic dining experience.
Aria, 5:30-11 p.m. daily. 877.230.2742
