Along the well-trodden path to the Mandalay Bay Convention Center lies Kumi Japanese Restaurant + Bar, an oasis where traditional Japanese dishes are highlighted with Korean ingredients in an amalgamation of southeast Asian cuisines. It's a delicious opportunity to leave the bustle of Mandalay Bay behind as you escape for a leisurely meal.
While at Kumi, sip on a Green Geisha while gazing at both the menu and passersby. The cocktail skillfully melds a variety of Asian-inspired ingredients in a well-balanced libation including Bombay Sapphire East Gin hinting of Thai lemongrass and Vietnamese black peppercorns, Thai basil and togarashi syrup. Much like the restaurant itself, it presents a twist on otherwise traditional Asian fare.
Kumi’s menu is rooted in traditional Japanese cuisine and a pair of mainstays do nothing to disappoint. Yellowtail serrano delivers a mixture of sweet and heat, the simple Japanese amberjack adorned with spicy serrano slices and wading in a citric yuzu soy. And miso black cod garnished with blistered shishitos is both sweet and savory, the presentation tweaked with the use of yuja (Korean for yuzu) miso. Each is a memorable representation of a ubiquitous, classic dish
A little less traditional is the tuna pizza. While known as an Italian staple, this miniature pie layered with tuna sashimi gets a bit of umami from a drizzle of white truffle oil, while micro shiso delivers a textural contrast. And while the salmon tiradito might not be on all of his menus, it’s so comforting it might need to be. With charred peach adding hints of smoky sweetness, this dish is worth seeking out.
If you don’t want to subsist on seafood alone, savory pork belly bao buns adorned with pickled cucumbers offer a reprieve to those in search of red meat, the tart vegetables providing a foil to the fatty swine. And Kobe short ribs resting atop teriyaki-glazed cabbage make for a finger-licking worthy offering.
Sushi rolls give the kitchen an opportunity to be fanciful. The Hot Mess lives up to its billing; while not the most composed roll, it nonetheless creates a spectacle. The combination of poke, kanikama—better known as krab—and avocado has Screaming O sauce poured upon it tableside. The sauce, including sriracha and kewpie mayo, delivers more than its share of heat, resulting in a gloriously delicious mess. Equally as unorthodox is the Pop Rockin roll, combining spicy tuna, salmon and kanikama with an unlikely ingredient: watermelon Pop Rocks. The addition of the childhood candy to the roll hardly contributes any sweetness; instead, it delivers the electric mouthfeel the candy is known for, bursting with every bite.
While the Pop Rockin roll might involve a candy treat, your real dessert is the transcendent strawberry soufflé. While soufflé at a Japanese restaurant might come as a surprise, the ethereal baked egg dish tucked with vanilla bean ice cream and chocolate ganache is a welcome finale to an unsurprisingly delicious meal.
Mandalay Bay, 5-10 p.m. Sun.-Thurs., 5-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat. 702.632.7200
