Long chopsticks swirl prime rib in a gorgeous cauldron of au jus. Slice by slice, an entire pound takes a dip on its way to a butter-crisped lattice of Hawaiian rolls. Then a saucepan hits the flame, nutty raclette absorbing bell pepper and jalapeño as it melts. What happens next in the kitchen on wheels? A deluge of cheese and fresh-grated horseradish and Spanish truffle.
The performance is riveting and matter-of-fact. The sandwich … it’s a plate-swallowing wonder finished with the garlic, mushroom powder, tamari and kelp of Momofuku Savory Salt. It looks every kind of heavy, but David Chang balances flavors like a Jedi stacking boulders with his mind. There’s deep meatiness, tangy sweetness, slowly unfurling heat. Pure stuff-your-face, ugly delicious dazzlement from a chef with many James Beard Awards and Michelin stars.
This is Majordomo Meat & Fish, Chang’s second outlet on the Strip and the 15th from his international Momofuku group. It’s a testament to what he’s learned, going back to the original New York City noodle joint that almost died hard before launching him to the culinary pinnacle. With nothing to lose, he trashed his own overwrought concept in favor of just cooking what he wanted to cook. Hence Majordomo’s daily menu changeups, and diverse inspirations. Las Vegas energy being a guiding force, the space is anchored by a bar where hip-hop chestnuts play a bit louder and glistening kampachi and stone crab claws peek from the glass. The raw bar is about magnificent fish with minimal adornment.
The main menu starts with bing, or Chinese flatbread. Chang’s interpretation is a fluffy, griddle-kissed vessel for shaved foie gras, wagyu tartare, fermented chickpea dip with chili oil, Sichuan-spiced lamb, egg whimsically spilling roe, and Vermont butter—with honey, or with Kaluga caviar after aging for 40 days in a Brooklyn cheese cave. You’ll want to try everything (and should).
Chang’s first restaurant showcased produce from New York’s Greenmarket, and here he honors beautiful lettuces and herbs with a simple palm sugar vinaigrette in the Market Salad. It breaks up the richness of a Majordomo dinner done right, as tables planning to order steaks are advised to split the pepper-forward Macaroni & Truffle. Cuts range from a bone-in filet to an A5 Miyazaki ribeye with more truffles, though cart service wins the meat category. This is Vegas!
The tableside spectacle offers smoked prime rib (used in the aforementioned French dip special) or beef short ribs ready to be wrapped with rice and hot ssämjang paste in Bibb lettuce. Just don’t discount the fish side of the menu, from red snapper in Chang’s famed ginger-scallion sauce to a decadent Maine lobster with noodles.
Thing is, Chang and his team can wring decadence from any ingredient. One of the best bites is the side of cabbage, as the humble veg is electrified with savory depth from smoking alongside Majordomo’s beef.
The message is, don’t sleep on dishes that sound basic. Take the ice cream sandwich. It’s coconut filling hugged by molasses-spiked pancakes dipped in chocolate and dusted with crispy feuilletine. Eat it with your hands, and accept that it will haunt your dreams.
The Palazzo, 5:30-10:30 p.m. daily. 702.607.3060
