“Oh my god,” said my dinner companion, creating a bit of a mini-panic in me. What could possibly be wrong? We were dining at Fleur, Hubert Keller’s fabulous French restaurant in Mandalay Bay, and she had experienced several courses of near perfection. Perhaps this one was stone-cold? Undercooked?
None of these—in fact, she had tasted the signature coq au vin. “Oh, soooo good,” she gushed. “Rich, heavenly, such a depth of flavor. Ooh… soooo good. It’s one of the best things I’ve ever eaten in my whole life.”
Fleur recently added several classic French dishes and other entrées to its menu to join its stalwarts, and the results are pretty spectacular. The cocktail menu has been refreshed also, bringing in drinks like the smooth Stellar Keller, which has hints of nutmeg on top to stimulate your sense of smell. If you’re up for a little more adventure, ask for absinthe. The cart rolls up tableside, and your server starts his ministrations, lighting a liquid stream of alcohol on fire (brandy in our case) and capturing the smoke under a glass, so you may enjoy the subtle flavor as you sip your drink.
Flames also create the backdrop for a brilliant appetizer, the fire-roasted seafood platter. If it’s being presented across the room, you’ll undoubtedly want one for yourself. A pretty tray of crab legs, shrimp, lobster, scallops and oysters arrives at your table, then is torched. The flames leap many feet in the air as the seafood cooks, making a stunning visual. It comes in two sizes, and even the small size can handily feed several people.
Besides coq au vin, (which comes with a delish spätzle), you’ll find items like the filet Rossini, tender grass-fed beef topped with a generous helping of seared foie gras, on a bed of creamed spinach. Listen—what’s that sound? Although duck confit is a luscious, unctuous morsel, you can actually hear how crispy the skin is. The lamb shank here isn’t too gamey, which may help those who are somewhat hesitant about ordering the dish. A citrus gremolata nicely accents the meat. And diver scallops get a trendy treatment with prosciutto, plus a little lobster jus. For vegetarians, pillowy potato gnocchi is accompanied by roasted mushrooms, snap peas, spinach and Parmesan.
It might seem a little decadent to think about ordering dessert, but in a French restaurant, decadence is apropos. The soufflé comes with lemon crème (remember to order this ahead of time), so pop and pour. And gorgeous, Princess Leia bun-sized macarons and whipped cream envelop raspberry sorbet. It’s served with a long glass serving boat filled with treats like chocolate balls and M&M's to sprinkle on at will.
Mandalay Bay, 11 a.m.-4 p.m. & 5:30-10 p.m. daily (menus subject to change). 702.632.720
