Surf and Turf
As Las Vegas enters a new normal, it’s refreshing to see that one of its newest restaurants is a full-fledged nod to its past. Bugsy & Meyer’s Steakhouse at the Flamingo refers to Benjamin “Bugsy” Siegel and Meyer Lansky, the (in)famous gangsters who opened the legendary Flamingo back in 1946, a watershed moment in Las Vegas’ history. The town would never be the same after Siegel and Lansky brought glamour to the desert, and after a meal here you’ll have a better understanding of and appreciation for that place and time.
Just entering this restaurant is an experience. You start by going in the “back way,” as Siegel, Meyer and other high-profile figures used to do back in the day. In this case, the back way is a “bakery,” which then leads to a small hallway with large plate-glass windows, through which you can see chefs preparing dishes and desserts, as well as a representation of the dry-aged meats the restaurant offers. There are numerous photos of Siegel and Meyer, all provided by their families.
The main dining room itself is spacious and offers plenty of room for social distancing. There’s a raw bar, where the seafood towers are prepared, and various other dining spaces for small and larger groups. The whole room has a ’20s and ’30s vibe thanks to designer Jonathan Adler, with retro touches like a custom beaded flamingo piece (which reportedly took nearly 100 hours to create).
The stunning menu comes from head chef Lamar Moore, a Chicago native who recently won the Food Network competition series Vegas Chef Prizefight. Start your meal off right with yellowtail sashimi, so light and delicate with truffle and black bean paste, piquillo pepper emulsion and Iberico ham, or the mouth-watering hand-cut Prime beef tartare, a star on this menu, served with foie gras aioli and pan-toasted country bread. Try not to fight over this one.
No matter what kind of steak you order here, rest assured it’s all part of Bugsy & Meyer’s in-house, 60-day, dry-aged program. There’s just no end to the options here, from wet-aged filet mignon and butcher’s cut Tomahawk ribeye to Mishima Ranch wagyu rib cap and dry-aged Prime bone-in New York. Whatever you decide on, be sure to pair it with sides like The Heater, a huge potato baked and stuffed with white cheddar, caramelized onion and The House sausage.
There’s plenty for fans of seafood as well, from the fresh Dover sole meunière, served with herbed spaetzle and beurre blanc, to pan-seared sea scallops, accompanied by parsnip purée, corn relish and crispy prosciutto. If you’re a fan of fowl, Mary’s roasted chicken might be one of the best available on the Strip, succulent and served with roasted organic root vegetables, carrot mousseline and harissa jus.
For dessert, just remember two words: Meyer Lemon. This unique concoction features a circular crispy meringue drizzled with creamy lemon cream and almond sable. It’s not too filling and a perfect way to end one of the best new dining experiences on the Las Vegas Strip.
Flamingo, 702.733.3111
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