Sadelle’s became all the rage in New York City as a brunch destination. Famed for its bagel towers and comfort food, the Las Vegas branch, which just opened at Bellagio, has a new goal in mind: to redefine the three-meal restaurant in a Vegas casino. The restaurant, a concept from Major Food Group, is tucked away behind the stunning Bellagio Conservatory and Botanical Gardens, in an inviting, colorful interior reminding you of another time.

While the restaurant is open from 6 a.m.-midnight daily, breakfast and brunch are still king here. All fish can be served in tower form, with levels featuring the selected fish—everything from house salmon to sturgeon and whitefish salad—accompanied by bagels with the works: tomato, cucumber, capers and cream cheese. And in order to get a bagel that approximates a true New York bagel (that water, you know), the restaurant went through hundreds of iterations. Of course, you can get a smaller portion, but still in a beautiful tiered format.

Cheese blintzes, a traditional breakfast dish, are delicious. The thin pancake exterior is properly browned and holds the rich, somewhat sweet cheese filling together nicely. Order with a side of fruit and pour the berries on top of the blintzes for a real treat. Salmon Benedict is picture-perfect, with bright hollandaise over salmon and eggs.

Tuna tartare is another attractive item, and tasty as well. A dish that never goes out of style is matzo ball soup. Here, the vegetables are julienned, giving this home-style soup a sense of refinement. The matzo ball itself is light and airy.

Assorted salad sandwiches are served as one would find at a tea party, stacked and without crust. The chicken salad is flavorful and is a worthy lunch item, tea or not.

Moving to entrées, the star here might be the fried chicken. The bird sits in a brine of Tabasco sauce, buttermilk and lemon zest for 12 hours. It is coated with flour and deep fried, then finished with assorted spices. Served with honey and Crystal hot sauce, it’s irresistible. The accompanying cole slaw is tangy and cools the palate properly.

Save room for dessert, because there’s a bevy of sweet winners. Chocolate pudding is decadent and served in the way you could imagine Kevin McCallister would have had it in Home Alone 2 during his stay at The Plaza Hotel. Side dishes of sprinkles, nuts and whipped cream make this an interactive ending to the meal with the diner getting to pile as many toppings as wanted on the rich, creamy pudding. The strawberry cake, 18 layers of strawberry and cakey goodness, make dessert a tea party. A roving pastry cart is whimsical and features an assortment of treats to be eaten in the restaurant or saved for later. It’s tough to find a good black and white cookie in Las Vegas, but this is one of them.

Whether you plan to go for three meals or just one, Sadelle’s has options that will satisfy, no matter the time of day.

Bellagio, 6 a.m.-midnight daily. 866.906.7171