On and Off the Strip: NoMad Restaurant, Paid in Full and more
On the Strip: NoMad Restaurant
With its grand library dining room, intriguing spaces and luxurious service, the new NoMad Restaurant (Park MGM, 833.706.6623) has already accomplished a new level of theatrical dining in Las Vegas. It’s an experience that mixes an exciting sense of modernity with time-honored fine dining traditions, but touring through the menu’s more classic offerings is an ideal way to savor what NoMad is all about.
Oysters Madison showcases two beloved bivalve preparations, chilled with champagne mignonette and broiled with Parmesan and breadcrumbs. Steak tartare is prepared tableside, ready for you to fashion surf-and-turf with classic lobster Thermidor: sweet, succulent seafood slathered in a creamy mustard brandy sauce. Beef Rossini is another vintage pick, a slightly stylized version of legendary chef Auguste Escoffier’s invention of filet mignon with brioche, roasted foie gras and madeira sauce.
NoMad isn’t trying to reinvent fine dining or Las Vegas, but it’s succeeding magnificently in reframing the best possible restaurant experience. –Brock Radke
Off the Strip: Paid in Full
Jason Olson and Michael Plourde may be under-the-radar types, but their take on Asian street food is some of the most creative fare in Las Vegas, complemented at Paid in Full (7225 S. Durango Road, 702.605.4402) with a 1980s hip-hop soundtrack. Foie gras okonomiyaki combines a savory pancake with a French staple. Crispy Brussels sprouts laden with sweet chili and pumpkin seeds are an epiphany. Sweet corn exudes earthiness from its miso butter, and mapo tofu Frito pie merges Sichuan cuisine with a Southwestern classic. –Jim Begley
Tacos are so hot right now, and it’s definitely salad days for stuffed tortillas at Tacotarian (6135 S. Fort Apache Road No. 402, 702.979.9329). Munch on 14 varieties of meatless tacos from barbacoa created with chili-braised jackfruit to Baja-style, deep-fried, beer-battered avocado. The tacos de Jamaica with sautéed hibiscus flowers and fresh pineapple, onions and cilantro are delectable and gorgeous. This month, ask for the #veganuary menu, featuring five secret selections. –Greg Thilmont