There are places that feel comfortable no matter how sophisticated they are. Brezza in Resorts World Las Vegas is one such environment, with sleek wood and metal elements evoking mid-century modern design in a low-key way. Along the sides of the dining area are slightly elevated, plush booths, with a variety of tables leading out to a patio area. On the opposite side of the dining room is a sweeping bar, beyond which you’ll find the kitchen and a custom, Tuscan-style, wood-fired grill, where many of the signature dishes here are created. 

The bar can supply you with plenty of delicious cocktails, but for a completely luxurious experience, opt for wine, of which Brezza has a huge selection. The bread that is served when you are seated is phenomenal—the focaccia is soft and almost melts in your mouth. Choices for starters include heirloom tomatoes served in a caprese with buffalo mozzarella and grilled crostini with basil pesto, and a flavorful tricolor salad with arugula, pomegranate and goat cheese. Order the chef’s salumi and Italian cheese board and you will request it be left on the table until the meal ends—you’ll be picking at the olives and pickled vegetables until it is decimated, or dessert is served. 

The primi course will leave you completely satisfied, with dishes such as bucatini alla amatriciana, a toothy pasta accented by Fresno chilis, tomato and bits of crispy guanciale. One of my favorites (it left me exclaiming, “This is what I come to an Italian restaurant for!”) is the cappellacci “oreganata,” pockets whose lemon and garlic fragrances transport you out of Vegas. The autumn squash ravioli is another rich option, served in brown butter and topped with fried sage. 

For an entrée, you can choose from an luscious osso buco with saffron orzo, veal Marsala or pan-seared salmon; but you can also go for one of chef Nicole Brisson’s celebrated steaks—Piemontese filet, dry-aged New York strip or the bistecca di Fiorentina from Creekstone Farms—cooked on that wood-fired grill. If you like, add on half a Maine lobster, nduja bay scallops or shrimp plus one of the quartet of inventive sauces like cacio e pepe zabaglione. Other grilled specialties include whole branzino or a Heritage Farms T-bone pork chop.

And although the gnocchi alla Romana is on the list of sides, this is definitely an option for an entrée as well; the pillowy little dumplings are nestled in a skillet and topped with Parmesan and chives; they’re nearly impossible to stop indulging in. But the mascarpone mashed potatoes are indulgent, too, and a poached egg makes them doubly so. Eggplant Parm is topped with fresh mozzarella and basil. 

Desserts include tiramisu, panna cotta, cannoli, and the lemon olio verde tart, with lemon curd and an olive oil meringue. It’s tart in just the right measure.

Resorts World Las Vegas, 702.676.6014

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