To most, French cuisine is considered the pinnacle of high-end dining. Classic French techniques permeate modern kitchens and numerous high-profile chefs have their roots in it one way or another. But high end shouldn’t inspire fear; instead, it should welcome diners to classic ingredients and methods of preparation while taking the opportunity to introduce novel manners of presentation. And this is exactly what is happening at one of our more storied but less flashy French dining institutions—Le Cirque at Bellagio.

Tucked away off the casino floor, Le Cirque is the remaining Las Vegas outpost from the famed Maccioni family after the closing of Circo early in the year. Under the watchful eyes of executive chef Wilfried Bergerhausen and general manager Ivo Angelov, the postage stamp-sized, 17-table venue continues to impress as much as it did when ushering in Las Vegas’ fine dining revolution 16 years ago. And no conversation about the peak of the Las Vegas culinary scene is complete without mention of the AAA Five-Diamond rated Le Cirque. It is simply that excellent.

While certainly entrenched in fine dining, Le Cirque exudes more of a casual atmosphere; the longtime staff—most of whom have been here since the opening—are particularly successful at creating a welcoming setting. The intimate room becomes a bit a more lively and animated as the evening progresses and more wine is poured, fitting for a room whimsically adorned with monkeys and circus balls whose tables are situated underneath an Adam Tihany-inspired circus tent—fitting for a restaurant whose name translated from French is “The Circus.”

While signature offerings are menu mainstays, guests can delight in a rotation of menus that highlight seasonal ingredients and Bergerhausen showcases his creativity in practically every dish. During a recent visit, Le Crabe presented a sensory delight. A Maryland blue crab shell stuffed with Dungeness and crusted with osetra caviar arrives perched atop smooth river rocks with smoke wafting from underneath; almost too picturesque to eat, to do so is to be rewarded with an combination of butteriness and saltiness in each bite.

And Le Caille—French for quail, of course—is a gold flake-crusted quail breast stuffed with foie gras and truffles atop a barley and corn risotto and finished with a truffle and quail au jus. The decadent dish is perfectly balanced, the risotto offering a foil to the earthy entrée. Les Saint-Jacques presents a diver scallop crusted in truffle with a parsley coulis. Incredibly rich.

Even richer is one of the world’s most unique dining delicacies, the Japanese A5 wagyu, which you can ask for by name as le boeuf Japonais. Presented prior to cooking at your table with pedigree—mine was born in February 2013—the remarkably marbled cut melts in your mouth while delivering the pure beef essence. Accompanying beef tendon croquettes only elevate the experience.

And for dessert, Le Boule au Chocolat awaits. A chocolate sphere is doused with an ample pour of hot chocolate sauce. In an almost mystical presentation, the sphere simply dissolves, revealing white chocolate ice cream crusted with hazelnut caramel crunch. It’s a showcase, and a lighthearted reminder of one of Vegas’ premier dining experiences.

Bellagio, 5:30-10 p.m. Tues.-Sun. 702.693.8865