If you want to feel like royalty, reserve a table at Andre’s. The upscale French restaurant in Monte Carlo feels as you imagine a classic French dining room might, with ornate chairs gathered around a few tables and plush booths creating cozy nooks. It’s a formal feeling without being too stuffy—but you’ll need to doff the hats and wear appropriate attire.

Chef André Rochat opened Andre’s in 1997 at Monte Carlo and Alize at Palms, but that came after years of running the original Andre’s downtown, where he tapped into a yearning for true French cuisine in Las Vegas, and developed signature dishes such as his lobster Thermidor. Chef de cuisine Chris Bulen now interprets that classic French dish and many others, and adds his own touch to new items and seasonal menus.

After being seated in that rarefied room, you’ll want to start with a drink such as the Rye Rumble, a refreshing glass with rye whiskey that’s been prettied up with raspberries. At Andre’s, you can order dishes a la carte or experience the chef’s seasonal tasting menu—and you’ll even find vegetarian-friendly dishes like the gluten-free quinoa cakes. Crisp outside, tender inside, they pair beautifully with roasted eggplant and a bell pepper sauce. For true decadence, get pan-seared duck foie gras, served with crème fraîche and streusel. And classic French onion soup, draped in Gruyére, creates high expectations for the remainder of the meal.

Entrées run the gamut from Dover sole almondine with a vegetable roulade to red wine-braised chicken tortellini and an artichoke and tomato barigoule, all delivered under a shining metal cover that's whisked away for maximum effect during the food presentation.

Lobster Thermidor, a classic that Andre’s is revered for, comes in a petite shell, delivering that flavorful, fragrant, super-creamy brandied sauce, with chunks of lobster and mushrooms swimming about. Asparagus makes the perfect accompaniment for the dish. And an unexpected but entirely welcome twist on that dish, the vegetable thermidor, brings that same sauce to you, again swimming with mushrooms and several other veggies.

What to order for dessert? Do you really have a choice? It’s got to be a soufflé (which, yes, you should preorder). The Grand Marnier soufflé lives up to the Andre’s reputation—it's an incredibly light, fluffy dish. Your server will break the top, pouring a cream sauce over and in. Other flavor choices include chocolate, raspberry, carrot cake and a special that changes daily. The layered hazelnut-praline gateau, with a bit of ice cream beside, calls for a cup of black coffee to offset the sweetness of the cake.

Monte Carlo, 5-10 p.m. Tues.-Sun. 702.798.7151