When you first enter Katsuya by Starck, a seemingly modest restaurant just off the SLS Las Vegas casino floor, it seems a little small, with a sushi bar dominating the space. But look around; there’s more space than you think, all incorporating an elegant modern element in its design. It’s another success in the many that designer Philippe Starck and sushi master Katsuya Uechi have collaborated on in the U.S.

Sit at the sushi bar, or ask to be tucked away in a booth with rice paper-reminiscent wall coverings and Japenese-inspired displays creating privacy. Four kitchens mean each type of food served has been prepared in an appropriate way.

Appetizers run the gamut from traditional edamame and the popular shishito pepper (in which several can be spicy, contrary to the notion that there’s only one in the bunch). Crispy Brussels sprouts here vary from the conventional approach where the entire sprout is served. These crunchy little leaves are separate, with a balsamic and almond accent—a wonderful alternative to the kale seen elsewhere.

Cocktails aren’t required, but certainly make a pleasant meal more so. The Samurai combines yuzu juice, Maker’s Mark bourbon and ginger in a beachy-style beverage with a little kick; the espresso martini blends Chopin vodka, Dorda double chocolate liqueur, Kahlua and espresso, garnished with coffee beans for a whimsical touch.

What makes many Japanese restaurants so appealing is the attention paid to detail, with looks an integral part of the meal. For instance, the Lobster Dynamite bakes mushrooms and lobster together with a creamy, dreamy sauce, evoking lobster mac and cheese. The pretty presentation includes a lobster claw and a marigold blossom atop.

The Omakase sushi, a marvel of presentation, allows the chef to really showcase his talents. Hosomaki, plus a shrimp head in a wooden box (which you can get fried to eat right away), accompanies the sampling of 10 pieces of multicolored fish.

Although it’s not on the menu per se, the chef here will gladly create a vegetarian sampler, too, another opportunity for the chef’s skills to shine. You’ll be surprised at the variety on the substantial wooden platter, from charred mushroom and avocado to several types of vegetarian sushi, all with a great range of flavors.

Even the desserts bring all the senses to bear. The green tea cheesecake accents the mild flavor of green tea with a potent raspberry sorbet and sauce. The luscious lemon pie has a tanginess that cuts through the sweetness of the pie. Several preparations of strawberry (dried, fresh and in sauce) accent that tart taste.

From start to finish, each component of your dining experience at Katsuya encourages you to eat with all your senses.

SLS Las Vegas, 6-10:30 p.m. Sun.-Mon. & Thurs., 6-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat. 702.761.7611